Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

terra low kit

Collapse

Forum Thread First Post

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Steve I will gladly help you get this the tech support on this thing. No problem at all

    Comment


    • #32
      This is a good topic.
      Here are a few of my thoughts.
      1. JB conversions sells new 241's for about $1700
      2. the dealership will sell them for about $1800-2k
      3. if you look for a while the 4-1 cases that have been modded get sold to make room for the atlases. I got mine for $600. I sold the old T-case for $100 and bolted it in in a half hour.

      A little different discussion, but relevent.
      has anyone ever broken a driveshaft U-joint NOT FROM AXLE WRAP or just plain wearing it out?
      the front of my chevy dana 60 came with a 1310 from the factory and it lasted for years under a healthy V-8. I never broke it. I run 1310's now in my jeep and have never broken one. The rear chromoly d-44 shafts snapped twice and the u-joints were fine.

      Here is why.
      a 1310 is almost the same size as a front axle u-joint but it has far less stress on it because the torque doesnt get multiplied through the axle gears. It SHOULD also have a lot less angle on the joint, keeping it a lot stronger.

      I was going to run a rubi t-case with conversion joints. Even with a spare joint, you can do the whole thing for under a grand.
      It's not what you have. it's what you do with what you have.

      Comment


      • #33
        Originally posted by Elusive View Post
        I was going to run a rubi t-case with conversion joints. Even with a spare joint, you can do the whole thing for under a grand.
        When I put my NV-241OR Ruby case in, I just had Tom Woods send me the correct size 1310 yolk for the rear of the T-case, I had new drive shafts made by Tom so I just ordered a new 1330 front shaft to match the existing yolk. My front axle is an 03 Ruby D44 that uses the bigger joints already. Reason for going to the 1310 in the rear is the angularity is much greater because of my lift size, drive shaft size and the tummy tucker. My belly is flat and the rear D44 axle has a low pinion and Tom recommended the 1310 because they work better for steep angles than a 1330 U joint. He also said they would be virtually as strong so no worries and I have yet to break a joint. I did pay extra for "clearence modifications" to the yolks, double cardan joint ara and had an extra long travel slip joint made. No vibrations even up to 100 MPH, pretty good for a 16.5" drive shaft.
        " [COLOR="DarkGreen"]Life-is-Good![/COLOR] "
        Rick W6RE

        Comment

        Working...
        X