I'm in the middle of it now. I've got the Nth deg 1.25 TT, 241OR, rear 44 with 4.88. I'm changing a lot of the existing procomp stuff to the higher quality RE adjustable, flexible arms. Its going well. But I keep buying more stuff and this online ordering rocks.
http://www.myjeeprocks.com/photopost...cat=517&page=1
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Help plan my Jeep Build-up!
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I bet an antirock wold help that also, not sure, haven't had enough seat time with it to find out.:confused:
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Originally posted by blkTJ
Actually ChrisL knows alot more about the cool rear shock relocation than I do.
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forgot to add:
at 4.5 inches I have a complaint about my suspension. It can be fixed by long arms.
when I want to climb a rock or something that is above the centerline of the axle/tire it lifts the Jeep up. I believe its called suspension jacking. Its kinda annoying. And when the tire comes up the rock, it does it fast and violently sometimes. Maybe lockers will fix that.
Note to self: GET LOCKERS HOOKED UP!Last edited by Dukes69; 12-18-03, 02:57 AM.
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Actually ChrisL knows alot more about the cool rear shock relocation than I do.
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Re: Help plan my Jeep Build-up!
Originally posted by jmbrowning
Here is what I think I need and your considered recommendations are greatly appreciated (my thoughts are in parentheses):
Front track bar (Currie JJ adj, compare with RE1600)
Rear track bar bracket (RE1602 angled for CV shaft, go with adj rear trackbar too RE1620?)
Upper control arms (RE SuperFlex adjustable front and rear)
Lower control arms (RE SuperFlex adjustable front and rear, are lower fixed ok or will there be caster/wheelwell centering issues? RE sells the SF 4.5" kit with fixed lowers)
Swaybar and disconnects (Currie AntiRock)
Shocks (Bilstein 7100 liked idea of user-serviceable ?overkill ?what valving ?what travel ?choose adjustable instead?)
Repositioned Shock Mounts (do I need these with only 4.5" lift?)
Bumpstops (what size front and rear for 33's?)
Driveshaft (Tom Woods Rubicon CV keeps OEM flange)
Gears (keep OEM 4.10 and turn off OverDrive for hwy, what to get for 33/35's in future 4.56 v. 4.88, think there is a limit due to locker)
Oilpan skid (waiting on Nth Degree, hope clearance is enough for now)
Gas Tank skid (live with OEM vs Toys by Troy, no BL req'd)
Brakelines (any other stuff I may have forgotten?). Longer ones would be better.
Last edited by Dukes69; 12-18-03, 03:00 AM.
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sounds like you've thought it all out. I'd look into a brace for the rear trackbar mount, Dukes can chime in here. You'll also need a new gear to correct the speedometer, unless it doesn't matter to you. you'll definately need brakelines, get the YJ ones (as long as your front shocks arn't longer than 26.5" extended). You'll need 2" of bumpstop extension. not sure how the backspacing will be, I've got 4.6" and it works just fine for those tires, not sure how the 35s are gonna work though. Now that I think about it, I'm not sure the YJ brakelines are compatable with your front 44, you'll have to look into that. If you end up getting the 7100s let me know which valving you go with and how you like them. I'm eventually going to be in the market for some 11" travel gas shocks and they are an option.
good luck.
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Help plan my Jeep Build-up!
OK, well, I'm pretty much tired of being a low-rider. Time to toss the Daimler-Chrysler warranty out the window and lift the 03 Rubi.
I am slowly piecing the build-up together. Money is of course a concern but not really a limiting factor.
I am planning on going with short adjustable arms rather than a long-arm kit for now. My goal is to travel moderately difficult trails like Holcomb, John Bull, and Dishpan Springs. No Johnson Valley...yet. Maximum articulation and center clearance is a big consideration here.
This vehicle will still need to be a daily driver for me, so no vibes at highway speed and fair comfort. Hardtop from Halloween to Easter. Softtop and doorless for the remainder.
I am planning on running 285/75/16 on the stock Moab 16x8 rims in hopes of not having any backspacing/rub issues. Is it possible to run those tires without spacers for the front?
Someday, may run 35's with either a BL or cut-up sheetmetal or by cutting off the control arm brackets and go longarm off the tummy tucker. No BL for now.
Here is what I have got so far:
4.5" Old Man Emu HD springs
1.25" drop Nth Degree Tummy Tucker w/auto trans skid
Toys by Troy front bumper/rocker panel/roll cage extension
Bulletproof Rear Bumper w/Tire Carrier
Warn X8000i (painted white!)
Here is what I think I need and your considered recommendations are greatly appreciated (my thoughts are in parentheses):
Front track bar (Currie JJ adj, compare with RE1600)
Rear track bar bracket (RE1602 angled for CV shaft, go with adj rear trackbar too RE1620?)
Upper control arms (RE SuperFlex adjustable front and rear)
Lower control arms (RE SuperFlex adjustable front and rear, are lower fixed ok or will there be caster/wheelwell centering issues? RE sells the SF 4.5" kit with fixed lowers)
Swaybar and disconnects (Currie AntiRock)
Shocks (Bilstein 7100 liked idea of user-serviceable ?overkill ?what valving ?what travel ?choose adjustable instead?)
Repositioned Shock Mounts (do I need these with only 4.5" lift?)
Bumpstops (what size front and rear for 33's?)
Driveshaft (Tom Woods Rubicon CV keeps OEM flange)
Gears (keep OEM 4.10 and turn off OverDrive for hwy, what to get for 33/35's in future 4.56 v. 4.88, think there is a limit due to locker)
Oilpan skid (waiting on Nth Degree, hope clearance is enough for now)
Gas Tank skid (live with OEM vs Toys by Troy, no BL req'd)
Brakelines (any other stuff I may have forgotten?)Last edited by jmbrowning; 12-18-03, 01:18 AM.Tags: None
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