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Yellow Jeep Rebuild
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I have a 4 link triangulated rear with no tracbar or swaybar... and a 3 link front with a tracbar and no swaybar. I get no binding at all and unlimited flex in the rear limited by the shocks, and almost no binding in the front and unlimted flex.
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The airbags are designed for 10 inches of travel.... but they stretch, I have about 12 inches of downward travel from sitting on the bumpstops, limited only by my shocks right now. They flex as well as just about anything on the market and ride much smoother on trail and on the highway.
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Very nice build. What is the height range on the airock. Does it flex as well as coilovers?
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may drive Miller and play in the rockpile in gorman first weekend in june... come hang out!
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Yup those darn things are hard to come by. I paid 450 for a housing, added Chevy Knuckles, new Chevy rotors and the ride from upstate Newyork and ended up paying close to a 1000 for it. Truthfully that is all I wanted anyway. They seem to be available some places back east. Looking for them here is like a needle in a hay stack at best. Yes the reason for the whole exercise was to be able to wheel without worrying about breaking stuff. I wrench enough during the week, do not care to do so when having fun on the weekend. Bu the way I love Yellow Jeeps and would love that airride on my little Jeep.Last edited by aw12345; 05-12-11, 10:57 AM.
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Miguel, actually I searched high and low for a matching Front Dana 60, but since I need one from 1977 1/2 to 1979 the pickings are slim, and those that are out there people want ridiculous money for them. Eventually I will end up with a 60 or a 9 inch in the front when I come across one that meets my needs
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The reason I ask is not to have the debate of how much stronger one is from the other, its the simple case of why not... Since you are building from scratch, seems like it would be nearly the same price to buy something that will be twice as strong. Anyway... ON WITH THE BUILD!
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To be honest I believe the Rubicon outers are marginally stronger than the Ford or Chevy outers, One buddy on our last run sheared his stub shaft right next to the outer splines on a Chevy stub shaft, those things are pretty skimpy there.
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Originally posted by Eye4Mud View PostOhh and about the Dana 44, the rubicon 44 I had in there, I drove on 37's for 5 years and never broke a front shaft..... has alot to do with your style of wheeling and how you use the skinny pedal regardless of the terrain.
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Ohh and about the Dana 44, the rubicon 44 I had in there, I drove on 37's for 5 years and never broke a front shaft..... has alot to do with your style of wheeling and how you use the skinny pedal regardless of the terrain.
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The Dana 44 HP housing is 3 inch O.D. and 1/2 inch wall... housing is plenty strong, yes the weakness is in the axles, but I have a couple of sets to break, so when they break I will go with RCV's and not worry again.
You can't beat the airride suspension on and offroad.... on the pavement it rides like and old caddy, offroad I can speed through very rough sections at ridiculous speeds that no one in a regular leaf sprung of slinky jeep can keep up with, plus when in off camber situations I can manipulate the suspension to keep the jeep level and COG down
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Originally posted by miguelitojeep97 View Postif your running 40s why not just go with a D60 up front? Maybe im wrong, but you might regret that later.
Here is a match up of axle shafts out of a stock Dana 30 TJ housing and the shaft out of a High pinion Dana 44.
Other than that very nice Jeep built, how do you like the air ride?
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a HP Dana 44 from a F250 is stout enough to handle these 40s and Roberts drivinganyways great build.
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if your running 40s why not just go with a D60 up front? Maybe im wrong, but you might regret that later.
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Things still on to-do list....
-Hydraulic Assist steering....
-Install Bump Stops --- DONE!
-Install Limit straps
-Install new rock lights
-Install LED offroad lights in front
Always a work in progres.....
J.E.E.P. = Just Empty Every Pocket!
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