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Atlas ll 5.0 and skid plate

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  • Atlas ll 5.0 and skid plate

    Those of you running an atlas ll, can you use a completly flat skid plate underneath? Did you run into any problems with the intall? Along with DS length, did you do anything else at the same time because you felt it was necassary with the atlas intall??

    Thanks for any info. Any cool pics would be great too. Pics are worth 1000 words.... or something.....
    Last edited by TJSUPE; 02-27-06, 04:29 PM.
    Supe
    97 TJ, 4" ProComp, 1" BL & MML, RE Adj. Control Arms, Rear 44 ARB. Front ARB. 35" MT/R's, York OBA
    Rock-it Man gear, STaK 3 Sp.

  • #2
    http://www.pierviews.com/photogaller...%20install.htm

    here are some pics of my atlas instalation.
    get the "clocked flat" atlas, and a flat skid is no problem. otherwise, it is a pain in the ass.
    my skid is a 1.25" drop nth degree skid.

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
    ERIK


    95 yj, locked lifted, and ready to rock!

    Comment


    • #3
      Silly question, but does it come with the slip yoke eliminator already? And what's that blue/red fitting with the hose? Did you pay extra for the Dukes69 accessory?
      Donate Life - Be a tissue, organ and blood donor

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Jeri Lyn
        Silly question, but does it come with the slip yoke eliminator already? And what's that blue/red fitting with the hose? Did you pay extra for the Dukes69 accessory?
        the atlas has fixed yokes (either cv or non) at both output shafts.

        the sight tube shows fluid level in the T-case.

        the blue and red anodized stuff is part of the package, no extra charge(it costs to much already).
        myJeeprocks.com

        "in the end... the rocks always win."

        Comment


        • #5
          as Erik said, if your going to do a truly flat skid you'll want the "flat" clocking ring option for the tc. Truth is, if your running a LP anything axle, you'll run into cv bind from severe driveshaft angles. I'd stick with a belly-up skid like mine or Erik's. That said, I still had to limit rear axle droop to save cv centering balls.

          My atlas is clocked at 7 degrees (least possible without the flat clocking ring). With a 1" BL you still need to pound a few inches into the tub to make it work.

          make sure when your setting the shift stick positioning you've got the knobs on.
          myJeeprocks.com

          "in the end... the rocks always win."

          Comment


          • #6
            so I think I will go with my current belly up then. Its a 1" drop I believe and I have a 1/2" spacer for it if needed.
            Supe
            97 TJ, 4" ProComp, 1" BL & MML, RE Adj. Control Arms, Rear 44 ARB. Front ARB. 35" MT/R's, York OBA
            Rock-it Man gear, STaK 3 Sp.

            Comment


            • #7
              Ok, here a question for you guys. Erik has the the regular rear yoke on his atlas per his picture. I currently have the flat flange on my rear output shaft with the adaptor on the rear Drive shaft. Not sure what they are called. Please educate me if I sounds clueless . similar to this picture.

              http://www.jdsoffroad.com/store/images/FTRFTS24116.jpg

              My question is, is there a benefit of one over the other. (flange over a standard yoke) If I wanted to stick with the normal yoke like Eriks picture, could I just remove that flange from the Drive shaft and make it work?
              Supe
              97 TJ, 4" ProComp, 1" BL & MML, RE Adj. Control Arms, Rear 44 ARB. Front ARB. 35" MT/R's, York OBA
              Rock-it Man gear, STaK 3 Sp.

              Comment


              • #8
                Not to :hijack: bit check out this out:

                http://www.stak4x4.com/2speed.htm

                Has good ratios, 32 spline standard. Its too new to tell if it will take the abuse like an Atlas but it is another option. Or just swap in an Automatic trans
                Michael

                [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by TJSUPE
                  Ok, here a question for you guys. Erik has the the regular rear yoke on his atlas per his picture. I currently have the flat flange on my rear output shaft with the adaptor on the rear Drive shaft. Not sure what they are called. Please educate me if I sounds clueless . similar to this picture.

                  http://www.jdsoffroad.com/store/images/FTRFTS24116.jpg

                  My question is, is there a benefit of one over the other. (flange over a standard yoke) If I wanted to stick with the normal yoke like Eriks picture, could I just remove that flange from the Drive shaft and make it work?
                  yes. you can remove the flange, and bolt it on there as long as your driveshaft is 13-10, or you have atlas build the case with a yoke to match your driveshaft [whatever it is other than 13-10]

                  as nagal has posted, the stak is a fine unit.
                  if it was out at the time i got mine, i'd have likely gotten in line for one of those.
                  there is also a new atlas 4 speed out. may want to have a lok at that one as well before you plunk down the money.
                  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
                  ERIK


                  95 yj, locked lifted, and ready to rock!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    out of curiousity, why would you choose the stak over the atlas. This is all fairly new to me and I am trying to learn what to look for when doing research.
                    Supe
                    97 TJ, 4" ProComp, 1" BL & MML, RE Adj. Control Arms, Rear 44 ARB. Front ARB. 35" MT/R's, York OBA
                    Rock-it Man gear, STaK 3 Sp.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      fancy manual guys . . . with your 3 pedels and 3 sticks.
                      [COLOR=blue]Chris[/COLOR]
                      SAVE JOHNSON VALLEY!!! - CLICK HERE
                      Ya Savvy?

                      Motech Performance

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        More the marrier..
                        Supe
                        97 TJ, 4" ProComp, 1" BL & MML, RE Adj. Control Arms, Rear 44 ARB. Front ARB. 35" MT/R's, York OBA
                        Rock-it Man gear, STaK 3 Sp.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Stak is a lot cheaper when you compare what comes on it standard vs what is considered an option for an Atlas. Downside of the Stak is it is so new hard to say how well it will hold up over the years.
                          Michael

                          [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            the stak is a 3 speed tc. high range, normal 231 type low and a crawler gear like 5 or 6:1. It weighs about 60 more pounds than the regular atlas.

                            the 4 speed atlas won't work for most of us because they add an underdrive to the front of the case, making it longer. that equals really bad driveshaft angles.

                            (edit) my mistake i didn't know stak came out with a 2 speed(/edit)
                            myJeeprocks.com

                            "in the end... the rocks always win."

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              So if I undertand this correctly (I am reading another article as I write this too on the stak) http://jeephorizons.com/news/stak_071305.html
                              So To drive this thing I would choose either my low, mid, or high range, then I can go through my regular gears with my transmission?

                              Also, do you know if the have the high RPM problems that the 4:1 has?

                              So basically the more speeds the better you can choose the right gearing for the right conditions, ie sand, rock, mud (gross), and maybe more rock....

                              This is all really helping me understand. Thanks and keep it coming if you got it! Is there an ideal crawl ratio you are trying to acheive. I would imagine it depends on what terrain you wheel, but we are all somewhat of rock heads so........
                              Last edited by TJSUPE; 02-28-06, 03:23 PM.
                              Supe
                              97 TJ, 4" ProComp, 1" BL & MML, RE Adj. Control Arms, Rear 44 ARB. Front ARB. 35" MT/R's, York OBA
                              Rock-it Man gear, STaK 3 Sp.

                              Comment

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