44's and a241 in a TJ

[bails85]

2 blk2drs. yeah kinda sounded stupid but what i thought from the above posts was that if you used a rubi tcase then u HAD to use the axles too. i was asking why. scott thanks for clearing it up.

[Jeeperator]

isn't the track width wider on the JK?

Yes they are wider and not a direct bolt in.

[Russ Chung]

I upgraded my D30/D35 and NV231 to a Rubicon D44/D44/lockers and NV241 last year. It is pretty much a bolt-in exercise except for the following:
1. If you don't already have a Slip Yoke Eliminator on your rear driveshaft, you will need one (or use the Rubicon driveshaft).
2. The driveshaft U-joints and the D44 pinions are 1330s instead of the 1310s that are on the Dana 30/35 and NV231. If you use the Rubicon driveshafts, they come with the bigger U-joints. If you use your old driveshafts, you can get 1310/1330 conversion u-joints.
3. The 4WD switch on the Rubicon NV241 transfer case is different than the one on the NV231--it has different positions in order to interface with the computer to disable the Rubicon lockers when not in 4Lo or above a certain speed. Here is a discussion thread on JeepForum.com that discusses how to replace the switch with one that will work with a non-Rubicon computer.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/np...vealed-651308/
4. The Rubi NV241 does NOT use speedo gears to adjust for different tires/axle ratios; it is electronic. I am running 33s and 4.10 axles, so I didn't have to make any adjustments. If you run another combination of tires/axle gear ratios, you should look into this:
http://www.superlift.com/accessories/truspeed.asp
I believe that Gerald Lee (provelogear) is using that device on his TJ.
5. I believe that the shifter mechanism on the NV241 t-case is different. Mr. Blaine convinced me that I should upgrade to a Novak linkage and I'm glad that I did:
http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_sk2xr.htm

I am very happy with my combination of NV241/4.10 axle ratio/33" tires. It gives me an acceptable crawl ratio on the rocks (78:1), and good highway manners (2300 rpm in top gear at 65 mph). If you plan to go with bigger tires, you might consider a lower axle ratio.

[Jeeperator]

I am doing a 241 swap with a rokmen tummy tuck and all I have to say is that bigger beefier tc is in there tight. I am probably going to have to do some floor clearencing.The shift linkage is pretty tweaked too goin to have to rework that also.

[sickandtwisted]

I upgraded my D30/D35 and NV231 to a Rubicon D44/D44/lockers and NV241 last year. It is pretty much a bolt-in exercise except for the following:
1. If you don't already have a Slip Yoke Eliminator on your rear driveshaft, you will need one (or use the Rubicon driveshaft).
2. The driveshaft U-joints and the D44 pinions are 1330s instead of the 1310s that are on the Dana 30/35 and NV231. If you use the Rubicon driveshafts, they come with the bigger U-joints. If you use your old driveshafts, you can get 1310/1330 conversion u-joints.
3. The 4WD switch on the Rubicon NV241 transfer case is different than the one on the NV231--it has different positions in order to interface with the computer to disable the Rubicon lockers when not in 4Lo or above a certain speed. Here is a discussion thread on JeepForum.com that discusses how to replace the switch with one that will work with a non-Rubicon computer.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/np...vealed-651308/
4. The Rubi NV241 does NOT use speedo gears to adjust for different tires/axle ratios; it is electronic. I am running 33s and 4.10 axles, so I didn't have to make any adjustments. If you run another combination of tires/axle gear ratios, you should look into this:
http://www.superlift.com/accessories/truspeed.asp
I believe that Gerald Lee (provelogear) is using that device on his TJ.
5. I believe that the shifter mechanism on the NV241 t-case is different. Mr. Blaine convinced me that I should upgrade to a Novak linkage and I'm glad that I did:
http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_sk2xr.htm

I am very happy with my combination of NV241/4.10 axle ratio/33" tires. It gives me an acceptable crawl ratio on the rocks (78:1), and good highway manners (2300 rpm in top gear at 65 mph). If you plan to go with bigger tires, you might consider a lower axle ratio.

Thanks for the info... Since your pretty local maybe you could advise/lend a hand and some knowledge if I end up doing this

[sickandtwisted]

So i want to bring this thread back from the dead, 5 months later this has become more than curiosity it's reality! I'm doing it... Well not just me I need help!

[4wheelinmike]

You can always try finding a rubi at the salvage auctions. Thats were I got my YJ =)

[sickandtwisted]

I've got the parts lined up... Mechabnically I think it's pretty straight forward with the exception of the t-case linkage, electronically is what i'm worried about.(lockers, spedo, 4wd light, etc)

[4wheelinmike]

if you have them and a place to do it, in between me, you, and devyn we can do it easily

[sickandtwisted]

NICE! I appreciate it. I'll keep on touch

[sickandtwisted]

I think I'm starting on this tomorrow...I've been waiting for the guy to pull the goods and finally just told him I'll do it myself

[4wheelinmike]

Hook me up with parts from your 35 (parts that didn't go BOOM...devyn told me about it lol)

You have like 3 weeks to get this done cuz I'll be on my weekends off and I need to get out

[sickandtwisted]

35 is fine just blew a hub its in one piece as of yesterday

[4wheelinmike]

he made it sound like you snapped a shaft lol