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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33554
i got my injectors from this guy.. good price, and local pick up. in lakewood see if he has what you need
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Are you using stock fuel injectors Chuck? I am thinking of going with some 26 lb/hr LT1 or Accel injectors. That will keep them around 80% duty cycle. The stock 19 lb/hr injectors will probably only be good for about 240 hp before you hit lean run conditions at wide open throttle. I'm assuming your setup will make closer to 250-260 hp, which means you need 260 x 0.5 / (6 x 0.8) = 27 lb/hr. I think you could even go with 30 lb/hr, but I'm not enough of an EFI guru to know what the adverse effects of having a slightly large injector is... Although that would allow for future upgrades like, say, a Hesco aluminum head
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The torque values for the engine bolts are usually given in lubed condition (mains and rod bolts). You should be putting at least new rod bolts, if not main bolts, when you reassemble. Buy ARPs and they will come with specific instructions, otherwise it should say in the manual which lubricant to use (oil or moly paste) on the OEM bolts. I really need to get one of those mopar engine books... I think many of the differences are described. When I did my 258, I torqued the mains to the spec in the manual using oil. I used ARP rod bolts and they even came with their own fancy moly paste (it's the same stuff...)
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quick update- I fuXored one of the pistons while pressing the pin in so a replacement is on order (accurate was low on stock and didn't want to split a set, so mike ordered a single extra just for me :yay: ). also been working or port matching the intake manifold to the head and opening up the exhaust ports a bit. also smoothing the combustion chambers a little. slow going, but it's going
:hat:
p.s.: rick, about using lube on the bolts, how much less should I torque them to? i know the dry torque is different than wet torque... but how much? i.e.: 20% less?
thanks!
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yup, rebuilt stock. a rebuild was cheaper than replacing the electronic points thingie, so that's the way I went. also stock OEM cap/rotor, new OEM harmonic dampener.
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Is that a stock distributor? Looks nice - make sure you lube the snot out of everything - moly paste on the rod bolts also to ensure even torque. I like Childs and Albert for the top end, it's kinda like sticky 40 weight.
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Originally posted by blkTJ
that's what she said... :yay:
HAHAHAHAHA....
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Originally posted by Dukes69
I cant wait to get your reaction when you stick it in there.
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lookin good, chuck! keep a tally sheet so i know what this whole mess is costing . i am interested, but unsure what i am willing to spend on it. great looking progress there
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very nice chuck! You're doing a damn fine job. I cant wait to get your reaction when you stick it in there.
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finally more pics. now you can see why i'm know for my punctuality
pretty... (my preciousssss......)
yeah.. um.. that's about it for now. i hope to get the pistons & rods installed and button up the bottom end this weekend- maybe even start on the top end. :yay:
:hat:
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crap on you... good thing i did all that stuff (i did my homework ) 14 head bolts and 14 main bolts- that took a while
1 turn in, 2 turns out, use cutting oil, all the way to the bottom of the hole, clean the hole with brake cleaner and blow it out with compressed air, clean & oil the tap for the next hole, repeat. 28 times. ugh.
:hat:
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